So one of the limitations of the RF60 and the V6 system is there is no actual TTL signals going between the camera and the flash or the transceiver. The problem with this is not just that you can not do ttl. Its that you can not go into HSS without the camera thinking there is a HSS comparable flash on the camera. They way cactus came up with is interesting. Basically either the V6 optical slave or the RF60 optical slave sees the HSS ttl pre flash signal that comes before the shutter starts moving then the RF60 does a HSS pulse to cover the frame. This is fine and dandy except when you get in bright sunlight you have limited use.
My original work around for this was to put my YN622C on camera and have it going to TTL HSS in a soft box with RF60′s slaving of of them it worked. It added a nice extra kick to the light output. I thought to my self is this really the best way.
I then after thinking about it and talking with Elvis over email he reminded me of this post. flashhavoc.com/godox-v850-witstro-radio-trigger-alternati…
I had the idea might as well try this. So what I did was I basically piggy backed a YN622C on top of my Cactus V6 with TTL passthrough. Then I have the pc to 3.5mm sync cable between them. To my surprise I now have the HSS pre signal triggering at the exact correct time. I just set my RF60s off camera to HSS mode. For the heck of it turn off the optical sensor to isolate it to just radio and go for it.
I all the sudden became in heaven. More on this later down but first lets get to the technicalities of your options.
Note exposures not quite inline with each other.
Option 1: Best in my opinion. YN622C or any other trigger that will do HSS pre signal + Cactus V6 + multiple RF60′s
This will allow you to have a uniform HSS pulse over radio. However you will need a RF60 or a flash that will manually let you enable the HSS pulse without TTL not sure if with the Godox V850 you can do that but I would love to try. The Godox V860C can control the power from the V6 also.
Option 2: YN622C + Cactus V6 + TTL flashes on V6 off camera
Since the HSS signal is not passed over radio this would mean that these would end up in hyper sync mode. So the pulse will not be as even however you still can add it to other HSS mixes.
Option 3: YN622C+ Cactus V6 + TTL flashes off camera on V6′s with delay staggering.
This was actually a test out of a request of some one asking questions about the v6 and rf60. they wanted to try and get their older vivitar flashes where they could cover a bream with more light by using the delay. It works fine however not as even as I would like.
I mean it is useable however there is to much of a jump at the beginning of each pulse. So its noticeable. If this was adding to other HSS flashes I don’t think it would be much of a problem. However if this was your only source it would be borderline usable. Still a cool thing to test out.
I think really the two reasonably usable options are Option 1 and Option 2.
Here is where the real fun comes in so an RF60 Unit is 139.95 so lets just do some math. Now I know you won’t get TTL with this but you still will get full remote power. Lets do this biased on having 4 flashes on a Phottix multi boom for mid day sun photos. More on that later.
Note: I do own RF60s, YN622C’s and YN568EX flashes.
RF60 139.95 x 4 = 559.8 + 1x V6 54.95 + 1x YN622C 43.99 according to amazon. = 658.74
YN568EX 186.75 according to amazon x4 = 747$ + 5x YN622C set of 2 is 83.89 so 83.89×2= 167.78 + single YN622C 43.99 = 958.77
So we have about a 300$ difference. The only difference between the two would be the off camera flashes would be TTL. The RF60 in my tests at 24mm actually is 1/10th of a stop more powerful than the YN568EX at other zones it is much more powerful.
Now would some one go out and buy 4x HSS flashes to do what I’m doing. Probably not. I have them from my beta testing so I am trying all sorts of crazy things.
Now to the real world tests.
Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any one becoming blind by shooting directly into the sun. Also I am not responsible for any live view damage if you feel like thats safer. I highly do not suggest what we did. It was a stupid idea and I saw spots for days.
Setup: 4x Cactus RF60s on a Phottix Multiboom 16 inside a Phottix easy up 28 inch soft box. This is controlled by a Cactus V6 on camera with a YN622C on top providing the pre sync. The cool thing is you actually can add other HSS on YN622C transceivers off camera. We won’t get into that today.
So it is 5pm We have the sorta setting blinding sun. So I think hey lets blind our selves and take pictures of us in front of the sun. Not the best idea for our eye balls but was a good test I feel.
Results at about 3 feet or so:
Strobist: F5.0 100ISO 1/8000 shutter speed.
Wow cool that was fun.. Now lets turn off HSS and just see what we can get with 4x RF60s with a V6 with no YN622 so non HSS.
Strobist: F32 1/250 100iso 4x RF60′s at full power.
Very cool but we see dust on the lens and so on because of the v32 I’m sure there is some sensor dust some where in there.
I would like to hear about you alls thoughts and ideas, or questions. The testing was fun and now I have a crazy hair brained setup for outside mid day.